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Table of Contents

Introduction
Tools You’ll Need
Step 1 - Preparation
Step 2 – Remove Cabinets
Step 3 – Mark Cabinets
Step 4 - Make a “Map”
Step 5 - Installation of Wall Cabinets
Step 6 - Install Base Cabinets
Install Lazy Susan
Install Cabinets Installation
Step 8 - Putting on the Counter Top
Step 9 - Door and Drawer Alignment
Step 10 - Putting on the Hardware
Care and Cleaning

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Introduction

  

Tools You Will Need

1       - Steel tape measure

2       - Carpenter’s level

3       - Chalk line

4       - Shims

5       - Compass and pencil for scribing

6       - Variable speed drill

7       - Drill bits 7/32”, 3/16” and ¼”

8       - Screwdriver attachments

9       - Step ladder

10     - Extension cord

11     - Bar clamps or C-clamps

12     - Carpenter’s square

13     - Stud finder

14     - Patching plaster and putty knife

15     - Small carpenter’s saw

Step 1 - Preparation

You will receive a complete set of construction drawings with detailed markings showing how each cabinet will be installed.  We ask that you open each box immediately to ensure cabinets are ready for installation and not damaged.  If you need any assistance of any kind, please stop and call Art or Jorge at 831.920.1131.  With a stud finder locate and mark studs (usually located 16" apart - on center).  Verify stud location by driving a small finishing nail into the wall (an area that will be covered by the cabinets).

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Step 2 – Remove Cabinets

 

Shut off water to the sink and dishwasher.  Turn off gas and electricity to the range, cook top, ovens and microwave.  Detach counter top by backing out screws.  Now you can remove the base cabinets. Most will be screwed to the wall through the back of the cabinets. Again, back the screws out.  Now you can remove the wall cabinets. First, unscrew adjoining cabinets. Then, remove screws from the back of cabinets. If there is a soffit, remove screws at the top. Be careful an entire section does not come down at once.  Finally, remove any moldings that will interfere with cabinet installation.

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Step 3 – Mark Cabinets

 

Wall cabinets are usually installed first, so the installer can stand in front or to the side of the cabinet. Remove the doors from the cabinets by unscrewing the hinge from the cabinet frame.  Remove the drawers by unlatching using the quick release levers under the drawer box.  Mark the cabinet fronts and cabinets to help determine the original pairing.

 

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Step 4 – Make a Map

 

It’s helpful to transfer your kitchen plan right onto the actual walls of your kitchen. Here’s how to do it.

 

Determine the HIGH POINT in the floor by measuring 30” every 4 feet along the wall and use a 48” long level to project a level line along wall.  You will use a measuring stick to find the shortest height between the high point on the floor and the 30” high level lines that were drawn previously.  Draw a BASE LINE on the wall at the level of this high point.  Add the thickness of your floor to the BASE LINE HIEGHT.  Snap a chalk line 34 ½” off where the flat and level floor will be.  This plane represents the base height of your cabinets.  It is a good idea to use a pencil line at 54” off the finished floor to avoid staining the wall with chalk.  This line represents the bottom of the wall cabinets.

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Step 5 – Install Wall Cabinets

 

Start in a corner. Measure from the corner to the first stud mark and transfer this measurement (allowing for the front overhang and the thickness of the cabinet wall) to the inside of the cabinet to be installed in the corner.  Mark the next studs. Raise the cabinet in place up to the line on the wall.  Drill ⁷/₃₂” holes (top, middle and bottom) through the cabinet and the wall, into the stud. Using #8 2.5” cabinets screws, fasten cabinet to wall.  Make sure the cabinet has been leveled from side to side and front to back and properly shimmed.  Move the next wall cabinet into position and repeat the installation procedure.  Once two cabinets are mounted to the wall, use the two bar clamps to clamp the stiles tightly together, being careful to line up the bottom horizontal edges. Drill a ³/₁₆" pilot hole through the stile in the first cabinet and ¼” deep into the stile of the second cabinet. Locate two holes, one at the top and one at the bottom about four inches from the cabinet top and bottom and join with #8 x 2.5" drywall screws.  Pull the two stiles tightly together and remove the clamps. Continue installing the wall cabinets next to one another in a similar manner.

 

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Step 6 – Install Base Cabinets

 

Move all base cabinets in place starting with the corner cabinets to check for fit. Once the corner cabinet is positioned properly (leveled front to back, side to side and plumb), use the stud marks on the wall to locate the position of the screws for mounting the base cabinets to the wall. Drill a ⁷/₃₂" hole at the stud location through the back of the base cabinet approximately 2" from the top through the ³/₈" thick back and into the stud. Attach the cabinet to the wall with the screws provided inside each cabinet.

Be sure to use shims under the cabinet base to bring it up to the previously established cabinet level line.  To attach filler strip to the adjoining cabinet, drill ³/₁₆" countersunk holes in the vertical stile. These should be top and bottom on the corner cabinet side, located just below the top hinge and above the bottom hinge areas and one centered in between. Clamp the filler strip in place on the vertical stile. Drill pilot holes ³/₄" deep through the cabinet frame into the filler strip. Attach the filler strip with 2.5" wood screws.  Clamp the corner cabinet and adjoining base cabinet together with the filler strip in place between them.  Drill ³/₁₆" countersunk holes in the front frame of the corner cabinet.  Drill pilot holes into filler and attach. Check the level of each cabinet (front to back, across and plumb).  Install the next base cabinet. Using two bar clamps, clamp the vertical frame members (stiles) tightly together making sure the horizontal frame members form a level and straight line.  Drill two ³/₁₆" holes through the first stile four inches from the top and four inches up from the bottom. Drill completely through the first stile and ¹/₄" into the second stile. Using #8 x 2.5" screws, draw the two frames together until snug.  Continue installing base cabinets one next to the other so they are all level and follow the base cabinet level line on the wall.

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Install Lazy Susan

 

Set the units flush with the frames of the cabinets on each side.  Measure from the cabinet frame to the wall to make sure you’re using 36" of wall space in each direction.  Leaving the Lazy Susan unit in place, attach the base cabinet on either side to the wall studs. Now attach the Lazy Susan frame to the front frames of the two adjacent cabinets.

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Install Specialty Cabinets

 

For Sink Cabinets, you will need to cut a hole in the back of the sink base cabinet for plumbing. Then put the cabinet in place so the plumbing comes through the hole you have cut. When you slide a tall cabinet into place, you’ll see you have a mismatch if it adjoins a wall cabinet. You’ll be matching a 12" deep wall cabinet against a much deeper tall cabinet - and looking at a gap between the two.  The answer is to use ¹/₄” space filler. Cut the filler to length and tack it to the edge of frame on the 12" deep cabinet. Fit the tall cabinet against the filler. The same applies to microwave cabinets.  Be sure to follow the installation instructions provided by the oven manufacturer. It is important to be sure oven weight is supported evenly on the front and back of your oven cabinet.  A filler trimmed to ¹/₄” in thickness or scribe molding is recommended to conceal the small gaps between the top of the cabinets and the soffit or ceiling.  When hanging cabinets from the ceiling or soffit, such as peninsula wall cabinets over an island, cabinets should be installed using at least one #8 “washer head” screw per every 16 inches of cabinet width. These screws should go through ³/₁₆" pilot holes, pre-drilled in the front frames and should have at least 1¹/₂" of penetration in solid wood such as ceiling joists or soffit frames.

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Step 7 – Install Counter Top

 

It is best to wait until all the cabinets are secured in place before ordering your counter top. After cabinets are installed, measure all surfaces that the counter top is required to cover. Take these measurements to your local counter top manufacturer or have him come to your kitchen and take field measurements of the kitchen. Remember, once you order the top from your own measurements and it does not fit, the problem can become complicated and costly.  Carefully place the counter top on the cabinets and check alignment. You will notice each base cabinet has lineal end panel braces. Carefully drill up through these braces within the front and back quarter of the brace length into the bottom frame of the counter top.  Be careful to measure this distance and select the proper length screws. Also, be extremely careful to drill the proper depth hole into the counter

top.  Do not drill through the counter top. It may be necessary, if you have uneven walls or corners “out” of square to have an extra piece of laminate called a “scribe” attached to the counter top by the manufacturer. This may be marked and then cut to fit the irregularities before installing the tops.

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Step 8 - Door and Drawer Alignment

 

If drawer does not close evenly, manually adjust drawer guide socket. To correct drawer guide alignment, adjust the drawer guide member attached from the front edge of the cabinet to the back, by manually realigning the back socket. Once realigned, be sure to check that the drawer guide rollers stay in their track and operate smoothly.

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Step 9 – Install Hardware

 

If you want to reverse the swing on square doors (change from a right hand to a left-hand hinge), just remove the door and attach it to the opposite side of the frame. Square door styles can mount upside down.  Now, install all pulls and other hardware.  Remember that all hardwood doors are susceptible to splintering when drilled.  Use a sharp 7/32" bit to drill holes from the backside of the door. Drilling into a wood block clamped tightly to the face of the door will minimize splintering.  A touch-up marker can conceal small installation problems.

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Step10 – Door/Drawer Alignment

 

Doors can be easily adjusted with set screws located on each hinge.  Drawers can be adjusted shifting the adjustment wedges front to back.

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Cabinet Care and Cleaning

 

All wood and laminate surfaces may be cleaned with a soft cloth moistened with pure soap suds (not detergent) then wiped dry with another soft cloth.  Once or twice a year, after cleaning, a light coat of self-cleaning wax may be applied to laminate surfaces for added protection. For wood surfaces, a light coat of furniture polish is recommended. Take extra care on the bottom edge of base cabinets and base cabinet doors where moisture often collects.  Do not use detergents, soap pads, steel wool or other harsh abrasive material on your new cabinets.